Trip Report: Venice to Mantua by Boat & Bike - A Relaxing Ride, Coast to Countryside

If I could return to a single moment from my guided Northern Italy cycling trip, it would be coasting through the countryside on a flat and empty road, with a warm breeze on my face and that growing sense of anticipation for what may lie ahead. You just can’t beat it!

Venice to Mantua is the reverse version of our Mantua to Venice Boat & Bike Tour and was my first Freedom Treks adventure, joining colleagues Maggie, Toni and Ellie. Starting in Venice, the route heads through Veneto, Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy to Mantua (Mantova to the locals), often crossing the River Po. We passed fields of crops and traditional farmsteads, contoured forests and rivers. We stopped at sandy beaches (refreshing sea dips included!), small fishing villages that made incredible gelato, and toured the fascinating Murano Glass Factory.

Our floating home for the week was the Ave Maria. The cheerful staff and friendly guides made us feel at ease, and we were served exceptional home-cooked three-course meals, complete with regional wine pairing recommendations. It was the perfect atmosphere to bring together like-minded people from all walks of life, sharing the same sense of adventure. My fondness for Italy has grown tenfold since experiencing this tour, and I hands-down recommend this holiday to anyone.

By Beccy Mersh, Content Specialist

Ellie, Toni and I arrived in Venice the previous day and met Maggie on the boat, who was joining us in Italy following her Lake Garda cycling holiday.

With a whole day to explore Venice, our ‘must do’ checklist included: visiting Piazza San Marco, riding a gondola, and eating ‘al fresco’ by the waterside.

First, we started the morning on a walking tour. Venice is divided into six areas and we walked through four of them, weaving through narrow streets that are broken up by campos (squares), crossing many historic footbridges, and learning about Venice’s history along the way. During our three hours, our guide took us to all the best, quieter spots that you wouldn't find on your own. We learnt about the Venetian Ghetto and ‘Spritz Alley’, a kilometre of canal-side bars.

Lunch included a charcuterie board and a glass of something nice, right beside the canal. It was extreeeemely relaxing - we could have stayed there all afternoon, but our gondola awaited. I highly recommend paying extra for a gondola ride. It offers a wonderful perspective of the city and some of the gondolier love to sing too - it's hard not to smile as their happiness is infectious.

For dinner that evening, we decided to find a table beside the water to watch the sunset over our temporary home island of Giudecca - this is where the boat would depart from the next morning. Giudecca is to the south of Venice and has a good choice of waterside restaurants, plus fewer tourists. We used our 48-hour water taxi ticket one last time, by venturing back to the city centre where there was a live concert held in San Marco’s Piazza. We didn’t have tickets for the seating area but enjoyed the atmosphere from a nearby bar instead.

Travel tips

Water taxis in Venice - in Venice, the water taxi (vaporetto) is the only way to/from the island where the boat is docked. Journeys can take 20 to 40 minutes depending on where you board, which route you take, and the frequency of the taxis, so it’s worth keeping this in mind if you have time constraints. Vaporetto boarding locations look like floating white and yellow cabins on the water - you can’t miss them!

Entry fee - during peak periods entry to Venice requires a fee of five euro (about £4.20/$5.50). This has been introduced to try to stem overtourism. For more information about the Venice entry fee, visit the Comune di Venezia website.

Navigating Venice - mobile GPS signal isn’t always on-point in Venice, so keep an eye on place names and points of reference as you explore, rather than relying on navigational apps. If you need to cross the Grand Canal, this can be done via a handful of footbridges or by taking a 12-seater passenger boat for a few euro. You may have to wait 10 minutes for the next boatload to be ferried across before you can board.

Wear trainers - we racked up almost 25,000 steps (each) in one day.

At 8.30am, we sailed to Murano for a tour of the glass factory. After a captivating glass-blowing demonstration, we browsed their collection of beautiful glass objects. All pieces are for sale, from vases and sculptures to hanging ornaments and trinkets - we each bought a little keepsake.

Then, across the water on Venice Lido, our bikes were unloaded for our first day in the saddle. It’s at this point I noticed the diversity of our group. We had a young family, couples and solo riders in their late 70s, some on e-bikes (electrically assisted), others on hybrids (non-electric bikes). We set off with two guides, one leading the group and the other bringing up the rear at a gentle speed. Stops were frequent, and the guides gave us a little history update along the way.

Venice Lido and Pellestrina are two thin stretches of land to the south of Venice. We cycled the length of the first island before stopping at Alberoni Beach for lunch and a welcome swim in the warm sea.

A small ferry for cars, buses and foot passengers took us across to the second island. We cycled a further 10 km, passing fishing huts on the water's edge and pretty multicoloured houses, eventually stopping for a creamy gelato - we think the best of the trip (and we tried a lot!).

Following a 25 km ride, the Ave Maria was waiting for us at the tip of Pellestrina, docked beside another beach. A second swim was just what we needed before relaxing on the sundeck after dinner to watch the sun go down.

Travel tip

Pack for Pellestrina - pack flip-flops, beach clothes and a travel towel in your pannier for the swim. For more tips like this, check out our What to Pack blog for clothing and accessory recommendations for your next cycling holiday.

The Pellestrina to Porto Viro leg of our journey began when we docked at the fishing town of Chioggia, pronounced ‘kee-o-jah’. Often referred to as Little Venice, Chioggia is separate from the mainland and has three parallel-running canals. We cycled into the centre, secured our bikes, and joined the morning bustle on foot. The historic fish market consists of over 30 stalls selling the fresh catch brought in that day, which we strolled past, before visiting the world's oldest clock tower and the Sanctuary of San Domenica.

We continued cycling for about seven miles until we stopped for lunch on a private beach at Bacucco. This was our last opportunity for a cooling sea swim, as the remainder of our journey would travel inland.

As we moved into the countryside and followed the Aidge River, we passed lush green vegetation, farmland and a wetland reserve. This is where we spotted a white flamingo! They are not pink here, as their colouring is determined by the shrimp they eat.

Routes were a mixture of tarmac and gravel, with some long, flat straight roads that allowed the group to space out and take it all in. The journey totalled 48 km. We sailed into Adria for the night and after another excellent dinner on the boat, we strolled into town for a well-deserved glass of wine and were treated to another spectacular sunset.

Our boat sailed to Bosaro, where we docked as we finished breakfast. The day started warm and hazy, and we set out toward the city of Ferrara, passing stone and terracotta farmsteads, and fields of maize, spinach, squash, beans and sunflowers.

Pathways were wide, flat and long, allowing for a full transition up the gears to make great headway with slow-turning pedals. The path was up on an embankment, so you could appreciate the vast sweeping views from both sides. We stopped at the little town of Polesella for a coffee and cake, before we found and followed the River Po, leaving the Veneto region and entering Emilia-Romagna.

We reached Ferrara known locally as the ‘City of Bicycles’. The once-powerful Este family were hugely influential in the city’s development in the Renaissance and built the central castle (Castello Estense) to protect officials from the Ferrarese, who revolted after high taxes and floods brought them to ruin. The castle and the remains of the enclosing city walls are fascinating. Our lunch stop was in front of the castle, followed by an exploratory cycle around the walls to round off our 45 km ride.

A coach with a trailer met us in Ferrara and whisked us off to a 200-year-old distillery where they make traditional grappa, as well as gin and flavoured liqueurs, including salted caramel, pear and dark chocolate. We were lucky enough to try a selection of flavours.

We were then safely dropped off in Zelo, where our boat was docked. Zelo is a peaceful little town, with one pub, one bell tower and a single traffic light. The locals came to greet the boat because they rarely see visitors.

Mantua was calling us today, so we bade farewell to Zelo and headed out on our bikes. After 16 km, we arrived at the cheese factory in Bergantino. Here they make Grana Padano, a hard cheese like the neighbouring Parmigiano Reggiano but use skimmed milk from cows fed on fermented corn. Each cheese weighs 45kg and due to the ageing process, they are lactose-free, low in fat and high in protein. So, some might say this is a healthier cheese, which I was happy to try with a little glass of red.

After our cheese fix, we visited the merry-go-round museum in town. The region is historically famous for carousel and amusement ride manufacture, and today still ships custom-made rides all around the world, from New York to Paris. Before long we were in the countryside once more, riding past fields dotted with hay bales. Our lunch stop was in a town called Ostiglia, which has a handful of cafes and eateries opposite a small fort.

Safely back on our boat, we gently sailed along the Tartaro Bianco Canal towards Mantua. We passed through an automated lock and nature reserves that were populated by nesting swans - so serene. Some of us even snuck in a little snooze on deck! As we drifted into Mantua, we enjoyed another fine meal.

To commemorate our final day, we decided to get up at 5am to watch the sunrise up on the sundeck, and sat on the deckchairs with a nice cup of tea!

After breakfast, we started our final ride: a circuit of Mantua. Under the dappled shade of woodland trees, we rode north towards the little municipal town of Marmirolo. Here we pit-stopped at a local patisserie for an espresso and some incredible pastries that were bursting with sweet fillings and cream - a tasty energy boost for the cycle back.

On returning to central Mantua, we hit the riverbank and followed it to a grassy picnic area for lunch and a cold drink from the waterside café. This is where we parted ways with our trusty bikes which had taken us so far in only a few days.

The day was rounded up with a stroll around the city, finishing at the main square for an aperitivo. Most bars and cafés in Italy - certainly in Mantua - will serve up snacks like olives, nuts, pretzels, bread sticks, and sometimes breads with meat or cheese fillings alongside your drinks at no extra cost.

Back on the boat for our last meal together, we tucked into slow-roasted beef with polenta and a perfect tiramisu. The crew wrapped up the trip with heartfelt closing speeches. We toasted the captain, the guides and the cabin crew for doing such a wonderful job. So many guests commented on how jovial the staff were. For me, it was the little things like hearing the chef singing in the kitchen as we had breakfast, and the playful banter between the guides that brought a smile to so many faces.

In the morning on the eighth day, we had breakfast and said goodbye to our fleeting boat family. In only a few days, we’d made some wonderful connections and friendships and it seemed strange to part ways, only days after getting to know each other. But the journey back to the airport lay ahead for me and the team, although if you have a couple of hours spare, it is possible to leave your bags on board before you travel onward.

Travel tip

Cash in Mantua - bring cash with you, as some taxis and bars do not take card.

Having experienced guides on the route with you takes any stress out of map reading and navigating any unforeseen challenges. We had two friendly, good-humoured and knowledgeable guides (one at each end of the convoy) who got us safely from A to B each day. As the week goes by, conversation starts to flow with your fellow riders and you quickly make new friends. A trip like this is great for solo travellers.

Venice to Mantua Boat & Bike Tour is not that physically challenging, as the terrain is almost entirely flat. Inclines are momentary, such as the transition onto a bridge or adjoining road and the pace is leisurely. E-bikes are also available for this tour if pedal assistance sounds appealing. Our group had a handful of e-bikers, Toni included - I had a quick try on her bike and the boost was brilliant!

Lastly, the food! When we set out for our daily ride, the boat crew took the opportunity to stock up on ingredients and produce in the town we were docked at. On returning from our cycle rides, refreshing juices, smoothies and sometimes cocktails were served alongside snacks. Then of course the freshly cooked three-course meals were delicious. Dietary requirements were also taken into account and with my dietary needs, I never felt like I was getting anything too different from everyone else.

While you are in the Mantua region, you could extend your trip to include a visit to Verona. We took the opportunity to explore this lovely old city for a few hours and we loved it!

You can't miss the Arena di Verona when you arrive, an impressive building that looks like a mini Colosseum. In fact, this ancient amphitheatre is not only older than its larger Roman cousin, it is still used for live entertainment today - thankfully, no longer by any gladiators!

As depicted in Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, Casa di Giulietta and the famous Juliet’s Balcony is a short walk from the arena. We visited it before finding a quiet side street for lunch - fresh pasta and a zesty spritz. This was the perfect way to round up our time in Verona.

Travel tip

Visiting Verona - if you’re considering spending time in Verona, we recommend bolting it onto the Mantua end of your journey as it’s closer to the airport. However, there are connecting trains and buses from Verona to Venice and Mantua - websites like Rome to Rio help plan your journeys.

If you like the sound of a relaxed, guided cycling holiday across the northeast corner of Italy, then please get in touch with one of our friendly Freedom Treks team for more information. View this tour to check availability and book or call us on +44 (0)1273 224066.

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